Day IV – South Bald Hills to Uto Ranger Cabin

July 4, 2009

Being in the tent at 7:30 the night before (due to crazy bugs) we had a good, long and well deserved sleep getting up around 7:00am ready for a long day of hiking. We still had to head south to Caribou Camp near Caribou Pass and then descend to the Beaver River before making our way to Uto Ranger Cabin about halfway back to the trail head. It was a distance of about 15km.

The bugs were bad in the morning and we packed up quick wearing gortex and full pants. I even resorted to wearing my bug net which is oh so attractive. We quickly found the trail\park boundary and followed it as bet as we could. Other than the park boundary cut there wasn’t much of a trail which added to the confusion of the morning. About 3 hours into our day we finally had to stop, get the maps, compasses and GPS’s out. The only problem is that with all these navigational tools we didn’t really have any idea of how to find ourselves on the map. It took some real humming and hawing before finally realizing what we had to do. In the end though we really found out where we were by walking a few hundred metres down the trail towards Caribou Pass finding Caribou Camp and the connecting trail that would take us to the Beaver River.

The rest of the day was just one foot in front of the other on an old trail along the valley bottom. The trees were thick and the views next to non-existent except for the occasional view of rugged mountain way above us.

After over 9 hours of walking from our morning camp we rolled into Uto Ranger Camp. The brush was thick around the hut but with some poking around we found a broken window which got us into the cabin. Some later investigation found an open front door as well. With a bug free building to eat and sleep in we quickly made ourselves at home. Later on out for a bathroom break I managed to step on one of the bear protection devices sending 2 or 3 rusty nails through my sandals and into the flesh of my foot. It hurt pretty good and I swore like a sailor as the nails went in and then quickly out.

During the night I decided to pitch my tent outside on the deck. There were a few reasons for leaving a cushy bed. The first was that there was a mouse forging right next to my head. While I don’t think I’d a have problem with this regularly the cabin was really warm so my bag wasn’t closed in any way and I wasn’t wearing much clothing. The second reason is that it was really warm inside and the 3rd is that my pierced foot was throbbing with the heat.

I quickly got my tent up and slept peacefully for the rest of the night out on the patio of our comfortable cabin.

Bear protection around the cabin. I later stepped on shrub covered one of these contraptions around the side of the cabin. A few nails went through my sandal and right into my foot making for a bit of a verbal event.

Trying our hardest to figure out where we were on the Bald Hill ridge. We thought that we might have passed Caribou Camp and it's trail to the Beaver River.

Glacier Circle across the Beaver River Valley. There is a cabin in that valley that is now a National Historic Site.

Bugs, bugs and more bugs.

Day III – Copperstain Mountain to camp south of Bald Hills

July 3, 2009

I really wanted to summit something on this trip so persevered on my partners that it would be worthwhile to summit 2606m Copperstain Mountain. On our third morning we dropped the 200 or so metres to the pass below treeline and on the park boundary. With no bags except for a fanny pack thrown over my shoulder we headed up the easy trail to the summit of Copperstain which we arrived at around 2 hours from camp. The views were incredible and really just that much more than the already amazing views we’d had from our camp high in the Bald Mountains. We sat around on the summit for a bit and then decided we’d best get on our way because we still had a lot of ground to cover.

After a nice lunch at our already broken camp we set off under heavy bags across the bald hills. We planned on crossing two bumps along the way to camp near treeline on the south end of the hills. After about 2 hours of walking and debating about where to stop we finally found a short stretch of water and called it a day around 5:00pm. We were lucky to have even found this small amount of water as there was nothing for refreshment other than a few patches of old snow.

As we made dinner the bugs came out. They were relentless and forced us into an early night with Roy staying in the tent with Katherine and I. It was a real squeeze and a bit difficult as it was warm and stuffy inside but way better than the constant whine around our ears outside.

Roy cleaning up the pots at ou 3rd dinner.

Katherine taking in the Sir Donald Range.

2606m summit of Copperstain

Katherine, Anna and Ryan heading up the scree near the summit of Copperstain.

Roy and Katherine making their way up the Copperstain trail. Bald Mountains and the Sir Donald ranges behind.

Up at 6:00am to get this shot and then back to bed shortly after.

Day II – Grizzly Creek cabin to summit of Bald Mountains.

July 2, 2009

After waking up early due to a clock malfunction on my part we were all up and hiking by 8:30 hoping to get to the high alpine where we’d camp with the amazing views we’d been promised in the guide book.

The hiking was easy on a well graded trail and the km ticked by. After a few hours of forest we entered a 30 year old burn where we were able see the steeper side of 2606m Copperstain Mountain. We planned to hike it the following day. A bit more hiking before we stopped at a nice looking Ranger Cabin for a break and then were off to the subalpine meadows at a pass and the end of the trail where we had lunch.

All that was left was a 200m gain through gentle meadows to our camp in a saddle high in the Bald Hills. The views were incredible from our camp with the 3284m summit of Sir Donald and many other peaks stretching to the south across the Beaver River. With camp set up by 3:00pm it was time to vedge on the soft heather in the warm sun.

From left to right in the Sir Donald Range: 3030m Mt. Macoun on the far left, 2997m Terminal Peak (just left of the tallest peak), 3284 Sir Donald with the little hanging glacier and the tallest, 2927 Uto Peak, 2846m Eagle Peak, 2861 Avalanche Mtn and 2878 Mount MacDonald on the far right.
Roy all tucked in the vestibule.

Katherine and the Sir Donald Range behind.

Leaving the trail behind we went overland through the Bald Mountain Range.

Roy enjoying the open and just flowering alpine meadows.

Entering a 30 year old burn on the Copperstain River with 2606m Copperstain Mountain above.

Roy ready to go on Day II after a good sleep.

Day I - Beaver River TR to Grizzly Cabin

July 1, 2009

After a vey lazy June and an early end to my 2008-2009 ski season I really wanted to start my summer vacation on a strong note. Katherine wanted to get out for a backpacking adventure over the 5 day Canada Day vacation she was taking and had 2 other friends that wanted to get out as well.

The trip would have us hiking for 5 days along the border of Glacier National Park taking in an alpine environment and the incredible views of the Sir Donald area and numerous hanging glaciers.

We left the truck at 2:00pm after a long drive from Kelowna, under heavy bags hoping to make it a few km up the trail to Grizzly Cabin. I was carrying a 6-pack of beer which I stashed in Grizzly Creek for when we finished the trip 5 day later.

After a quick 2 hours of hiking we arrived at the little used Grizzly Creek Camp and immediately set about getting our tents out, getting dinner ready, massaging sore muscles and getting a fire ready. A good start to our backpacking adventure.

Katherine, Anna, Ryan and myself ready with 5 days of food on our backs.

First nights camp on the Grizzly River just a few hours up the trail.

Roy relaxing in the shrubs after a getting hi heavy bag off his back.

Cassiar: Cabin Bowl - Fresh Snow

May 31, 2009

I sort of slept the night although with my foam pad I was tossing and turning on the lumpy ground. It was also just below zero in the tent which made for some falling frost and a wet outside to my sleeping bag. The occasional strong gust of wind didn’t help either. At 6:30 and knowing I was going to be at the van in not so much time I was up thinking I’d avoid a warm breakfast and just go ahead and eat my lunch. I quickly got my camp packed up and headed off to the top of the highest bump on the plateau.

I had to boot up the final bit of ridge and from the top, skied fresh snow to the saddle below and rarely travelled terrain. I had originally planned to ski the big face from the top of the next bump however looking at the cornice next to my descent line saw the fresh snow already pin-wheeling naturally down the slope I’d be skiing. The bowl I was I entering was exposed to frequent slides on nearly all aspects which is why it isn’t really an area you can ski often if rarely. I quickly changed plans because of the pin-wheeling and just dropped into the bowl, skiing some steep, crusty and fresh snow to the bottom. In places it was nice skiing though and at the bottom I skied out the avy chute right down the gut hoping that the most direct route would get me out of danger that much quicker.

Into trees and out of immediate danger lower down I booted up a short bit of slushy snow to get out of the gully and then skied icy snow to the valley bottom. From there it was only a pain of a ski back to the van which I arrived at around 9:30 about 2 hours after I’d left camp. The final bit of poling along the run-way was the most painful and slow under an intense morning sun.

A fun overnight trip in the mountains and a run that will only ever be skied on either the safest of conditions or well, the safest conditions.

Cassiar: Chiera - Motivation makes for a difficult decisions

May 30, 2009

Motivation at this time of year makes it difficult to get out and ski. It doesn’t help when you’ve got a bit of a cold, the weather looks crappy and I’m on my own. That’s just my excuses though and it nearly turned me around on this trip. The weather promised to turn clear in the late evening which would have the clouds parting with the wind and temperatures dropping.

I started up into the Chiera bowl around 2:30 in the afternoon in the hopes that I’d not have to spend too much time up high in a tent with the wind howling and clouds overhead. I wasn’t that motivated when I got there seeing as the clouds were looking wet, there were a few rain drops on the windshield and a howling cold wind. But after a quick snack, I shouldered my light overnight bag and skinned off up to Marble Creek. The snow was sort of supportive although there was only about 15 or 20cms of snow at valley bottom. My first thoughts of turning around were when I realized I’d have to cross Marble Creek. Last June it was a bit of a rager however at the very end of May it was still just a creek and I didn’t even get my feet wet as I jumped from rock to rock.

The snow became supportive further up the road and the going easier. I was still feeling a bit relaxed though and had a few thoughts of just throwing my bag down right there spending the night at treeline. I persevered though and in short order was passing below some fresh avalanche debris from a bit of cornice fall. Up higher I started getting into some fresh snow which was nice seeing as it’s the end of May. And higher still the wind really hit which made me think about where to put my tent out of the wind. I found a great spot, set up my tent and from there thought I’d get a short run off the top of the little bump I was camped behind. It had taken me over 2 hours to get to the top of the plateau at 1800m.

With all the whinging I was doing it was surprising that I wanted to ski but as it was still not 5:00pm I thought what the hell. I had a fun few turns in the fresh snow from the top of the bump I was camped next to. The night from there went well with some sun and relaxation as I melted snow. I didn’t read for long as once in the tent the temperature dropped and my arm got too cold holding my book. I was asleep by 8:00pm with occasional wakeups from strong gusts of wind.

Cassiar: Best Corn So Far

May 24, 2009

An excellent nights sleep had me up and awake at 7:00am. My plan would have me skinning to the end of the bowl and then up to ski something fun at the very head of the valley. I was on my skis sometime between 7:30 and 8:00. The skinning was fast on firm snow and I skinned as far as possible before feeling it would be best to start booting up the face. The snow was just beginning to soften as I did this and I was sinking in just a little above my ankle. In places I was stepping up to my knees.

The boot up seemed to take forever but in reality couldn’t have been more than 30 minutes. On the summit ridge I was pretty tired due to the sometimes unpredictable steps. Because of this I didn’t really take in the views. I was also in a rush so as to not miss the prime time corn that was happening at that moment. Getting to the entrance of my run looked a little more complex than I had originally thought though. There was a 3 metre vertical step that couldn’t be bypassed on the other side of the ridge like I’d thought possible. So I had to drop down a bit, boot up a narrow, shallow snow finger that had ice over top of rock, and then scramble up steep rock to regain the ridge. It was fun but I was tired so maybe didn’t enjoy it as much as I should have.

At the top I quickly switched over and skied some amazing snow down a narrow, steep couloir. On the apron the snow stayed amazing and I had a great time. It really was incredible. I was quickly back at camp at 8:45 after skiing my 300 metre run. I quickly got packed up in 30 minutes and was soon skiing out with my overnight bag hoping to get the still firm snow in the valley bottom for the rest of the ski.

At Shovel 3 I spent some time playing around on the huge dilapidated machine. I’ve wanted to climb into it for a while and wasn’t disappointed as there were ladders and doors to climb and explore. With my exploration bug finished I got my skis on and pushed off for the hopefully fast mellow ski out to the town site some 5 or so km down the valley. A few hundred metres into the ski I caught an edge and hit the ground hard losing both skis in the process. My forearm got skinned up a bit in the process and one of my skis took off down the road, miraculously stopping a few hundred metres later on a thin strip of gravel. I was lucky it didn’t vanish into the trees because that would’ve been a difficult search.

I was back at the car around 10:00am enjoying an early cold beverage I’d left in the snow bank. A great trip and my first overnighter complete. I went light using my day backpack, jammed full. I still had some extras which hopefully can be weaned out on my following weekend trip.

From my highpoint. I started the trip skinning from the edge of the tailings pile the day before.

Little couloir I skied with Roy waiting patiently below.

And my tracks. Started in the little couloir on the right. You an also see the boot pack going up tot he left.

Roy a ways below from on top of Shovel Three.

Two moose crossing a wide part of the Dease River.

Sockeye Salmon truck overturned just out of Dease Lake. Free salmon for everyone! I have eight in my freezer waiting to be consumed.

Cassiar: First Overnight Trip of the Season - Shovel 3

May 23, 2009

With spring like temperatures I knew that if wanted to experience some excellent corn snow I’d have to either get up really early, or spend the night in the mountains. Now that I’m on my own I figured I may as well break out the tent and sleeping bag. I went light and packed up Roy’s panniers with some food and extra clothing.

We headed up the Mine Valley with the plan of camping on top of the un-aptly named Matterhorn. After 75 minutes of skinning with a light overnight bag, Roy and I arrived at Shovel 3 for a break that was well deserved. So far we’d been travelling on somewhat firm, sled packed frozen snow.

After a good break we headed off the access road and up into the climbers left valley instead of the Matterhorn valley. With a few very short breaks we soon arrived at the head of the valley on top of some rock knobs. The snow was surprisingly easy enough to skin on. Ski penetration was only a cm or two.

We quickly got the tent set up and with the sun beating down decided it was time for a nap. At 2:00pm I hauled myself out of my cozy tent, knowing I’d have to ski something to make the day worthwhile. We dropped down to treeline and from there skinned up a steep couloir on soft snow. The skinning was easy though with really good purchase. At the top we quickly changed over and skied a fun run to the base. Turning around I noticed that I’d set off a bit of a wet slide that followed my tracks down.

All that was left was a slow skin back up to my camp where I relaxed the rest of my day away. I was out on my feet for about 5 hours and skied about 300 or 400 vertical metres with vertical climbed over 1000 metres.

Was able to skin up this thing with 7 switchbacks. The skiing was alright, although as is obvious I was a bit late in the day.

Still very light at 10:00pm